A New Yorker’s First Attukal Pongala
March 2, 2010
We have many street festivals in New York City, but nothing quite prepared me for the event that is the Attukal Pongala. This was a truly citywide happening, with every street filled with people, simmering clay pots and the pongala offerings. Add to this the many spectators, vendors selling trinkets and souvenirs, the trucks delivering water and fruit, the police vans and ambulances, and you have a scene that can be described as “amiable chaos”.
And despite the crowds and the smoky streets, the atmosphere was nothing but friendly. As a first-timer to Kerala and Trivandrum, I was very impressed with how relaxed the atmosphere was, despite the crush of the crowds. The blazing sun did not help matters and many people were sitting on the streets, fanning themselves for a little comfort. Many look tired as if they had traveled long distances to get here, but they still seemed to enjoy being part of an event that is clearly meaningful for them.
I was out walking the streets from Museum Road to the Attukal Temple itself (that must be at least 6km) for a seven-hour journey. One of the most interesting things was that I seemed to be the only Westerner in view (maybe they were warned to stay away because of the huge crowds) so that made me a curiosity to the people lining the street. Many people came up to me and asked me my name and where I was from. They seemed amazed that someone from the USA would journey to Trivandrum for this event (truth be told, it is part of a month long holiday in Kerala). Young people were particularly friendly and when I asked if it was ok to take their photos, they beamed with excitement.
I must have taken at least 100+ pictures on my digital camera……mostly panoramic but some intimate close ups. If I saw a woman in a colorful sari or a young child dressed up the festivities or a group of young men arm in arm, I asked them if I could take their photo, and they were eager. If there is one thing I have learned in my many travels, it is that a smile is a shared common language. I smiled, they smiled, and without exchanging dialogue, we were sharing a special moment of intimacy. That is something I will cherish for a long time to come.
Once I (finally) arrived at the Attukal Temple in the afternoon, the crowds had gotten even thicker. I stood outside the police barrier, straining to take photos, convinced that as a man and a Westerner, I would not be able to go inside the temple compound. A policeman noticed me leaning over to get some photo shots, and he walked up to me. “Oh, oh”, I thought, “he is going to tell me that I cannot cross the line and that I am not allowed to take photos.” I was waiting for a scolding or maybe even to have my camera taken away, but the policeman instantly smiled (there is that universal language again) and told me that it was ok for me to go inside the compound and take photos. I went past the barrier, took off my shoes and spent a good 20 minutes getting some wonderful pictures of the lines of women entering the temple with their pongal offerings.
By the time I was finished at the temple, apparently so was everyone else. Suddenly, I was in a moving train of a throng, pushing (and I mean pushing) their way forward to the rail and bus stations for the long voyage home. I was literally carried away by the crowd, with short but determined women with bags on their heads pushing me forever forward. It was a mix of exhilarating and slightly scary……what if I ended up being pushed by this tsunami onto a bus headed to Tamil Nadu or the express train to Bangalore?
But this was not to be….I made the trek back to the Muthoot Plaza (my very comfortable, wonderfully air-conditioned hotel) and collapsed on my bed. While the day was long and exhausting (and very hot), I was so glad to be part of the Pongala happening. The Kerala people are beautiful in body and in spirit and I felt that I was part of the community when spirits were high and the connection between people could be felt. It was yet another memorable day in Kerala, a place of great beauty and spirituality.
Sandy Mandelberger
New York, NY USA
Email: sandy_mandelberger@yahoo.com
Posted Under: CitizenSpeak
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Truly pleasing to hear that you had a wonderful experience Sandy. Thanks for taking time to share the story with us all!
Do come back!
on March 2nd, 2010Glad to hear that you had an interesting Pongala experience, it’s an unique one that can be experienced only here! Hope to see you in Trivandrum again.
on March 2nd, 2010Nicely narrated ..could picturize the things happening right in front of my eyes.
on March 11th, 2010Very interesting. Wish the pics had captions. And on which site other 100 pictures taken by you are available ? One more thing Sandy, be more careful about the changed names of cities in India. Or else
It is Thiruananthapuram if you don’t know already.
on March 11th, 2010BTW, though i am not a keralite, i like Paal Payasam, Semia Payasam and of course Aviyale. Any place in Pune where i can get these delicacies?
u fool u enjoyed the day mmmm…
on April 8th, 2010good that u were not carried away and thrown in to a B’lore train by the women tsunamy.. ( u wish u were… rt… hmmm ?)